Frequently Asked Questions
Q: I've connected power to the LED Magician but it doesn't seem to be working! The indicator LEDs does not light up and there are no power at the outputs.
A: Before using the LED Magician, you'll need to select the correct input voltage by shorting the connections labelled "8-28V" or "4.5V". Example: If you are using a 5v power supply at the input, solder the two connection pads beside the label "4.5V". If you are using a 9v battery or power supply, solder the two connection pads beside the label "8-28V". Please see the online manual for information.
A: Before using the LED Magician, you'll need to select the correct input voltage by shorting the connections labelled "8-28V" or "4.5V". Example: If you are using a 5v power supply at the input, solder the two connection pads beside the label "4.5V". If you are using a 9v battery or power supply, solder the two connection pads beside the label "8-28V". Please see the online manual for information.
Q: Can I program the module to my specific sequences?
A: The short answer is no. For the long answer, the SMD chip is pre-programmed with our specific sequences. We can include more, but we stopped at 32 because we just can’t think of any more sequences. In fact, we stopped at 20 and pushed ourselves to include another 12 more sequences. There are two ways to get your ideas into the product. Send us an email with your idea, and we will try to include it in our next version. Second method is to produce a batch customized for you. We can program it for free, but that would require a minimum run of 500pcs. Lower quantity (of at least 100pcs) is possible, but at a higher cost. Email us for a quotation.
Q: What is the difference between the “LED Magician” vs the older “KT-01 LED Sequencer”?
A: In this version, we included several new features :
- A wider voltage range, 3-30V, compared to the previous 9-24V. This allows users to power their LEDs with standard disposable batteries and to drive LEDs in parallel at their specific voltage without the need of resistors. It also allows the use of standard Li-poly (Lithium Polymer) and Li-ion (Lithium Ion) cells.
- Dedicated "positive & negative" output pins or through-holes at each channel to allow easy wiring. All channels still share a common cathode (common positive" +") )
- Pitch size (distance between each hole) for output channels is now 2.54mm to allow the use of standard sized header pins and connectors.
- 100% surface mount components = improved durability.
- The LED Magician board is thinner than the KT01 LED Sequencer (6mm vs. 15mm)
- Indicator LEDs are now located at the top side of the board while the bottom side remains flat to allow single side mounting while the indicator LEDs remains visible.
- Control buttons now has optional ports that allow external buttons to be wired out. This also allows the access to the controls via a micro-controller (such as Arduino etc.)
- Another minor difference is in the color of the board. The LED Magician looks better in black :-)
- The LED Magician has a slightly larger width (at 40mm) as compared to the KT01 LED Sequencer (at 25mm) The drawback of a larger width is compensated by the benefits of a thinner profile (thickness of only 6mm vs 15mm) and a single sided components layout.
Q: Can I use my LED Magician with my ____ brand LEDs driven by a ____ regulator? How many lights can I connect and what kind of resistors do I need to use and should I connect it in series or parallel or how do I install my ____ on my ____? And do I need a ____ with ____ for my ____?
A: We get asked questions like these all the time. While we can't study up on all the brands and types of LEDs each user uses, or help with your designs and calculations. We can help by giving you a clearer picture of how the LED Magician works.
How the LED Magician works is pretty simple. Whatever power you are currently using to power to your LEDs, connect the power to the LED Magician instead. The LED Magician will split that power source into 12 outputs while adding pre-programmed blinking sequences to it. Whatever voltage you supply at the input, the output will be at the same voltage. Think of it as a series of on/off switches, that is exactly what it is. The board "switches" the power on and off at each channel in a computer controlled sequence(s).
Q:How many LEDs can I drive per channel?
A: Depending on the type of LEDs you use and the amount of current it draws, you can determine how many LEDs you can connect in parallel to each channel. The board has a limit of 500mA per channel. You can look at your LED's datasheet to find out how much current it draws. A typical 5mm led draws an average of 10-20mA of current, so in this case you can connect up to 50 LEDs per channel, any more LEDs that you connect to it would be overdriving it and might risk damaging the board. You can connect just one or two LEDs, it doesn't matter because your LED only "consumes" the amount of current it needs. For standard LED strips, you can connect around 2.5 meters of the strip to each channel.
A simple rule for beginners : If any of the chips on the board feels too hot to touch, you're overdriving it! (Warm is normal, burning hot is not!)
A tip for advance users : While the outputs are rated at 500mA, you can overdrive it slightly. You can drive it higher if you have a method of cooling the driver chips (the two identical chips located near the output pins) However, do it at your own risks as no warranty is provided!
A simple rule for beginners : If any of the chips on the board feels too hot to touch, you're overdriving it! (Warm is normal, burning hot is not!)
A tip for advance users : While the outputs are rated at 500mA, you can overdrive it slightly. You can drive it higher if you have a method of cooling the driver chips (the two identical chips located near the output pins) However, do it at your own risks as no warranty is provided!
Q: Can I connect RGB LEDs / LED Strips to it?
A: Absolutely! RGB LEDs are simply 3 separate channels (Red, Green, Blue) in a single strip. They usually share a common ANODE (also referred to as "Positive" or "+"). Simply connect the ANODE to the "V+" on the LED Magician, and the cathode (also referred to as "Negative" or "-") to any of the 12 channels you desire. You can also combine 2 or 3 colors to get more colors out of your RGB LEDs. Eg. connecting (R)ed & (G)reen to channel 1 would give you YELLOW when that channel is on. The combinations are endless, have fun trying them out!
Q: What if I need more than 12 channels or less than 12 channels?
A: Sure we can design a board with 50 or even a hundred channels but we think that 12 is enough for a decent sized board and it should meet the requirements of an average user. If you need more than 12 channels for your project, consider repeating the effects by wiring a few rows of LEDs per channel and repeating them in the form of a repeated layout (1-12, then 1-12 again) or use 2 units of the LED Magician if you require higher currents.
If you require less than 12 channels, you can choose to use only the channels you require. You can leave any channel(s) empty without a load and it won't consume any power at that channel.
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